This eventually lead to an axle that was too short, and what appeared, at first, to be a pretty clean splice job to lengthen it. The differential couldn’t be mounted as far left as necessary without the engine occupying space normally required for the driver’s right arm. Putting the engine in the passenger’s seat requires some packaging compromises. So much for all that suspension tuning.Īt least the new mounting arrangement leaves lots of room for camber adjustability… So, for the record, Stock Metro front struts at both ends, cut Metro springs up front, unknown trailer springs in the rear. Those small-diameter springs are trailer assist springs of some unknown spring rate. The rear shock towers weren’t anywhere close to the right location, so they were removed and cage extensions are now used to mount the struts. Its difficult to see, but there is a gusset bracing this extention to the upright, so it’s not as bendy as it looks.Ĭonnected to those uprights, of course, are struts, which have to go somewhere. The solution, after one exciting test day, is this hugely extended mount for the tie rod. This makes handling exactly as twitchy and terrifying as you might expect. Wth the toe link on the back, this means massive toe-out when the suspension compresses. When the suspension compresses, the ball joint will swing outward slightly. The toe control link will swing inward.
Now, if you were paying attention to the geometry discussion on the previous page, you’ll immediately see the problem here. The car’s original rear toe control link was cut and welded to a tie rod, which goes to the front hub’s steering arm. The stock rear control arm is still used, but the end of a front control arm is welded to it, providing a ball joint for the front hub to attach to. Getting drive to the rear wheels meant “simply” transplating metro front hubs to the rear. With a longer chain (now as long as a drag bike’s), Alex is expecting a single chain to be strong enough. The differential, axles, and janky steel mount were removed from the front of car and plopped between the rear wheels. Sometime the simple soltuion is the best solution. Lacking funds to make a longer hydraulic line, Alex simply connected the cable, which was already rigged to the Metro’s clutch pedal, to the CBR brake handle. The CBR-900 had a cable actuated clutch, while the 1000’s clutch was hydraulic. The fuel pump mount and fuel outlet were cut from the top of the bike’s tank and welded into the fuel cell’s filler plate. The 12-gallon fuel cell now residing in the front also needed surgery to feed the bike powerplant. This is how you get a CBR-1000 engine on a LeMons budget. Note the gash in the lower right of the case and the JB weld holding the oil in. The valves are gone, but the ECU needs to see the solednoid (zip tied to the cage in the top-left of this photo) or else it will go into some kind of limp home mode.
Everything from the bike was transferred to the Metro, including the catalyst and even a little solenoid that’s supposed to progressively open valves in the exhaust system to reduce restriction at high rpm. The fuel-injected CBR-1000 required a little more trickery to install. As a matter of fact, yes, it is loud in the car.
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